“Endurance is not just the ability to bear a hard thing, but to turn it into glory”
– William Barclay, author of Endurance: Shackletinis Incredible Voyage.
Julley……an Introduction
Despite grueling physical and psychological demands, Ultra Running is booming. Any run longer than a conventional 42.195 Km (26.2 Miles) Marathon can be considered an ultra marathon, but the events are diverse, ranging from road and mountains races to multiple days of running through deserts.
Army Ordnance Corps (AOC) was pioneer in organising an Ultra Marathon Expedition in the year 2019 when it successfully conducted #KT75, an expedition of 777 Km Ultra Run from Jabalpur (M.P.) to Secundrabad (Telangana) to commemorate the Platinum Jubilee of Battle of Kangla Tongbi. Its success encouraged to attempt something similar albeit more difficult in a different and much more challenging terrain and weather.
LaTruk…..the Idea
Mountains have always been places for lowlanders to exercise their imaginations: full of demons or else sublime and adventurous.
The idea of a High Altitude Ultra Run was conceptualized in October 2019 but the outbreak of COVID pandemic forced to shelve the plan. I again took up the idea with my hierarchy in January 2023 which was graciously accepted. I was asked to lead the proposed expedition and to assist Headquarter Northern Command of Army in planning, coordination and execution of the expedition. My prior experience of participation in various ultra running events in almost all types of terrains and of successful leading #KT75 came handy in planning the expedition. By March 2023, a rough layout plan of the expedition had been drawn and the case was initiated for obtaining mandatory clearances and release of funds. Volunteers were asked for participation. The team was shortlisted provisionally for training based on which the final selection was to be made.
The expedition was inspired by La Ultra – The High, an Ultra marathon running event held in the Ladakh. The marathon subjects participants to extreme climate, distances of up to 555 kms, and altitudes of up to 17,500 feet and is deemed one of the toughest runs in the world. I had participated in the event in its ninth edition in August 2018. Dr. Rajat Chauhan, founder of La Ultra was a big help to me in planning and execution of the expedition. His valuable guidance given in his booklet of La Ultra assisted the team with acclimatization and other nuances of running at high altitudes of Ladakh. The team is deeply indebted to Dr. Rajat Chauhan for all his help.
The Route: Famous Leh-Manali Highway was chosen as the proposed route because of the challenges it poses and its ruggedness and toughness. The expedition of 550 Km was planned from Khardung Village in Ladakh to Manali in Himachal Pardesh. The proposed route traverses over six mountains passes whose height range from 13000 to 17600 feet. Since the route had six mountain passes, it was named “LaTruk” where “La” means a mountain pass and “Truk” means six in Tibetan language. I carried out the route recce in which various halt stations were decided and coordination was carried with various army units and other agencies en route.
The Logo: The colorful logo of the expedition with LaTruk 2023 inscribed over it in the Tibetan language caught everyone’s attention and was appreciated. It was designed by Col. Kapil Tuli, a dear runner friend. As an artist he is creative, versatile and innovative. He has the ability to capture the essence of life and express it in ways that are both unique and inspiring. The logo features a stylized depiction of the Himalayas with the famous Buddhist white domed Shanti Stupa in the foreground. The logo is circled with colorful prayer flags that are commonly found stung along trails and peaks in the Himalayas. The figure of the Runner depicts the spirit of a runner which is one of courage, resilience and hope.
The Schedule: Considering the weather forecast and other logistical factors, the expedition was scheduled from 5 September 2023 to 16 September 2023 and 50 Kms were to be covered each day of the expedition.
The Challenges: The expedition through some of the most breathtaking scenery in the world, situated amidst the stunning Himalayas was going to be different. The average elevation of the route was more than 4000 m (13000 feet), varying between 2000 m to 5400 m. The challenges of the route, weather, lack of oxygen, high elevation, extreme cold, meandering paths with steep inclines and declines, and no civilization for miles made the run very challenging and forced the runners to push through pain and fatigue. And most importantly, high altitudes of Ladakh meant that the runners must contend with thinner air and lower oxygen levels.
Getting Ready………Training and Pre Expedition Preparations
“Your greatest moments won’t come on Race Day. They will come on those training days when you realize you have what it takes”
The training of the shortlisted volunteers was conducted at Dharamshala (Himachal Pradesh) in the months of June and July 2023. The training consisted of long runs, uphill walks and treks in the hills around Dharamshala. The team was also put through strength training and yoga sessions. The selected runners were given a training program which they followed after going back to their respective units.
The Team: Post training session at Dharamshala, the final selection of the team was made and Col Sandeep Madan, Sub Anoop Joseph, Hav AP Singh, Hav AM Rao Pola, Hav Hari Om, L/Nk Santosh Behera, L/ Nk Neeraj Sharma, Sep Satender Singh, Sep Shubham Sundram and Hav Thejas KV (Physio) were selected to form the team.
TEAM AT DHARAMSHALA FOR TRAINING
After obtaining all the necessary approval and clearances, the team reached Leh on 24 August 2023, 11 days before commencement of the expedition. The intervening period was utilized for acclimatization and high altitude training, kitting, medical checkups and various briefing sessions related to medical advisory, route, daily routine etc. Getting used to running in low oxygen levels was the most important aspect which the team practiced during this period. When the body slowly adjusts to lower oxygen levels the process is called acclimatization which was challenging but was taken care by proper hydration, nutrition and rest. Few short trips to higher altitudes were organized for body to adapt to the altitude. The Army units at Leh assisted the team in its preparations and coordination with various establishments located on the route.
TEAM UNDERGOING ACCLIMATIZATION
And the Grind begins
The team moved to Khalsar in Nubra Valley on 3 September 2023 and organized itself for the final grind. The expedition was flagged off at 6 A.M. on 5 September 2023 from Khardung village by Major General Pankaj Pachnanda, MG AOC HQ Northern Command and the team set out on the arduous journey. In addition to the runners, the team was accompanied with a Medical Officer and a Nursing Assistant for medical cover and a support team for administrative backup.
TEAM WITH MGAOC HQ NORTHERN COMMAND
The team would commence daily run of 50 Km at 6 A.M. preceded with a 15 minutes warm up session and would finish by 3 or 4 P.M. followed by cool down and stretching session. Breakfast and lunch breaks were taken en route. On the very first day itself, the team climbed to the highest of the six passes, Khardung La (17600 feet). Next day, the team ran through the city of Leh, famous monasteries of Shey, Thiksey and reached Karu. Running along Indus River and passing through the towns of Upshi, the team reached Rumtse at the end of Day 3. On Day 4, the winding roads amidst rolling hills took the team to the second pass, Tanglang La (17500 feet) and thereafter the team moved down to More plains and halted at Debring village. The road from More Plains climbed up to Pang which has an Army Transit Camp at 15100 feet. By now the team had covered 250 Kms and fatigue had set in. A day’s break was taken at Pang Transit Camp.
FLAG OFF
The stretch of road from Pang to Lachung La, the third pass was the most treacherous but we were rewarded with the spectacular views en route. The entire stretch was broken and dusty. Lachung La (16600 feet) and the fourth pass Nakee La (15547 feet) were crossed on the sixth day. From Nakee La, the team descended to Sarchu Plains through Gata Loops and ran along Tsarap River or Tsarap Chu with its turquoise colored waters flanked by colorful mountains. Sixth day terminated mid way between Whisky & Brandy Bridges. The night halt was at Sarchu, a vast bowl flanked by mountains and popular camping area. At Sarchu, the team had entered Lahaul Valley of Himachal Pradesh. A land of wide contrasts on the route, Lahaul is a bouquet of scenic mountain villages and fascinating Buddhist art and culture. It is marked by high mountains, massive glaciers, rivers and high passes.
Night halt on Day 7 was at a place called Bharatpur which only had couple of road side Dhabas in temporary shelters. These too were about to be closed and moved to Manali as the area experience heavy snowfall during winters. Climb to Baralach La (15910 feet) the fifth pass, was through a bad road in broken condition due to heavy snowfall in the previous winter season. From Baralach La, the team descended to Zing Zang Bar and here onwards, the run was along Bhaga River which originates in Baralach La. Day 7 ended at Darcha. The land scape had now changed from desolate desert to green. Next day, the runners ran from Darcha to Shooling via towns of Jispa, Keylong and Tandi which is the confluence of Chandra River coming from Chandra Tal and Bhaga River coming from Barlacha La. The combined river flows as Chenab and joins Sutlej River later.
The route on the penultimate day passed through Sissu, a charming village with lovely mountains, waterfalls and streams. Thereafter the climb to the sixth and the last pass, Rohtang La (13050 feet) started and the runners were greeted by a myriad of cascades. The weather so far had been dry and cold, however the team was greeted with heavy showers as soon as it crossed Rohtang La and the rain continued on last day too. Day 10 finished at Marhi. The route on the culminating day of the expedition through Solang Valley was the most beautiful one with lovely greenery, cascading waterfalls, green meadows, apple orchards, cedar trees. All these provided a much needed succor to the tiring bodies. At 2 P.M. on 16 September 2023, the expedition finally culminated at Palchan Transit Camp where the team was accorded a warm welcome.
The stretch of road from Pang to Lachung La, the third pass was the most treacherous but we were rewarded with the spectacular views en route. The entire stretch was broken and dusty. Lachung La (16600 feet) and the fourth pass Nakee La (15547 feet) were crossed on the sixth day. From Nakee La, the team descended to Sarchu Plains through Gata Loops and ran along Tsarap River or Tsarap Chu with its turquoise colored waters flanked by colorful mountains. Sixth day terminated mid way between Whisky & Brandy Bridges. The night halt was at Sarchu, a vast bowl flanked by mountains and popular camping area. At Sarchu, the team had entered Lahaul Valley of Himachal Pradesh. A land of wide contrasts on the route, Lahaul is a bouquet of scenic mountain villages and fascinating Buddhist art and culture. It is marked by high mountains, massive glaciers, rivers and high passes.
Night halt on Day 7 was at a place called Bharatpur which only had couple of road side Dhabas in temporary shelters. These too were about to be closed and moved to Manali as the area experience heavy snowfall during winters. Climb to Baralach La (15910 feet) the fifth pass, was through a bad road in broken condition due to heavy snowfall in the previous winter season. From Baralach La, the team descended to Zing Zang Bar and here onwards, the run was along Bhaga River which originates in Baralach La. Day 7 ended at Darcha. The land scape had now changed from desolate desert to green. Next day, the runners ran from Darcha to Shooling via towns of Jispa, Keylong and Tandi which is the confluence of Chandra River coming from Chandra Tal and Bhaga River coming from Barlacha La. The combined river flows as Chenab and joins Sutlej River later.
The route on the penultimate day passed through Sissu, a charming village with lovely mountains, waterfalls and streams. Thereafter the climb to the sixth and the last pass, Rohtang La (13050 feet) started and the runners were greeted by a myriad of cascades. The weather so far had been dry and cold, however the team was greeted with heavy showers as soon as it crossed Rohtang La and the rain continued on last day too. Day 10 finished at Marhi. The route on the culminating day of the expedition through Solang Valley was the most beautiful one with lovely greenery, cascading waterfalls, green meadows, apple orchards, cedar trees. All these provided a much needed succor to the tiring bodies. At 2 P.M. on 16 September 2023, the expedition finally culminated at Palchan Transit Camp where the team was accorded a warm welcome.
TEAM WITH DGOS & OTHER DIGNITARIES
Runs End, Running Does’nt……. the Conclusion
“LaTruk” like La Ultra was unique because of the terrain, weather and beauty of Trans Himalayan regions of Ladakh and Lahaul Valley of Himachal Pradesh. Nowhere on planet, will you get a chance of running over not one but six mountain passes of heights ranging from 13000 to 17600 feet, with temperature variation of 400 C to sub zero and less than 50% of oxygen to breathe. The runners at “LaTruk” went through a range of emotional and physical highs and lows based on fatigue, mental state, pain, perceived performance, body’s circadian rhythms etc.
The Himalayas are a true testament to the grandeur of nature. The scale of the Himalayas is disorienting; it is not muscular but steroidal. The mighty altitude of the Himalayas is a constant remembrance to the loftiness of the human soul, its vastness, a prototype for the universality of human consciousness, runners at the expedition experienced this first hand. Dr. Rajat Chauhan has mentioned in his La Ultra booklet that the massive Himalayas are very gentle if you respect them, but if you dare to challenge them, even unintentionally, they show you who the boss is. It’s the presence of oxygen that makes existence of life possible on earth. That same oxygen was very low at the high altitudes that the runners were exposed at “LaTruk”.
With each passing day of the expedition, the team became stronger than before and at start line each morning, the team knew that;
This won’t last,
We can go further,
Comfort is a lie.
It’s time to sign off 2023 and a good time to reflect on the year that has passed. Let’s move ahead and lace up our running shoes and let’s run into 2024 together.